We’re downtown after dark, so there are lights in the background. Panasonic GH4, Leica Nocticron, f/1.2, 1/4s, ISO 100.įor this portrait, I setup the picture based on a quarter of a second exposure. But if you want to really have some fun, set your shutter speed slow, adjust the flash and other settings so the picture looks good, then move the camera during the picture. Practice these settings before you’re in a situation where it counts.) Move the Camera and Drag the Shutterĭragging the shutter is commonly used to allow ambient light to burn brighter in a picture–usually so it’ll match the brightness of strobe light (FYI: strobe=flash=strobe). ( Note: if you set to 2nd Curtain and use anything but Manual mode with your pop-up flash, you may notice that the camera chooses a longer shutter speed than it does in 1st curtain mode this is because it’s allowing the ambient light to burn in and balance with the flash, which is generally a nice thing…unless you’re trying to handhold a 1/4 second exposure on the wedding dance floor and aren’t expecting it. Purposely using a slow shutter speed is called “dragging the shutter”. You’ll really only notice the difference when speeds are slow and there’s some movement on either side of the camera. I set my cameras to 2nd curtain and leave them there. This usually makes the face sharp and recognizable, and yields more repeatable results than front curtain. This way, your subject is moving and blurring, and then gets frozen by the flash at the end. Set it to rear sync (Nikon) or 2nd curtain (Canon, Panasonic) and the camera fires the flash at the end of the exposure, just before the second door closes. Each time she paused slightly, the light burned a little brighter, like on her clear face at the right side of the frame. There was no flash fired in this exposure, just a constant light shining from high and behind my dancing subject. Panasonic GH4, Olympus 17mm f/1.8 lens, f/8, 2 seconds, ISO 100. This is when the flash fires at the beginning of the exposure. When you have a slow shutter speed and a subject that’s moving, however, you’ll see that the flash lights your subject, but then as she keeps moving she blurs through herself, possibly becoming unrecognizable (and possibly looking very cool). The default setting for your flash is to fire as soon as the doors are open(front sync/1st curtain), and then the second door closes having let the flash illuminate your subject. This is why sync speeds are important when working with flash–if your shutter speed is too fast, the doors will be partly closed when the flash goes off. It’s more like two sliding doors–the first one slides open and the second slides closed after it. The shutter in your camera isn’t like a door that swings open and closed. Tripod–strongly recommended for the best results and replicability.Flash (pop-up, speedlight, mono-block, power-pack and head, nuclear bomb–anything will do).Camera–point and shoots may not be capable and your iPhone can’t do it, but many bridge cameras and every changeable lens camera I’ve ever handled will work.This setting works for your pop-up flash, for a speedlight on your camera, and for any off-camera light you’re controlling. I'm 42 years old, have 3 beautiful daughters and a wonderful husband without whom all my crazy hobbies wouldn't be possible :o) Thanks for sticking around and actually reading this :o) I hope you guys enjoy my work.The most powerful flash setting you have is the one that controls when your flash fires. I like sketching, drawing and painting which would explain why even my 3d images don't have the actual "3d" feel to it. To be honest though, 3d isn't really my thing. I am still in the process of learning how to use that program. I started getting into 3d modeling, playing around with Anim8or and Wings3d, however we ended up purchasing Lightwave which turned out to be alot different from the free modeling softwares and way more complicated. At first I wasn't too sure about Poser, but it grew on me and is also one of my favorite tools to create some of my art with. But Photoshop is definitely my favorite when it comes to creating my artwork. Later on I tried painting in paint shop pro, Corel's Painter and Photoshop. I loved it! I played around creating lot's of ANSI graphics for myself and other Bulletin Board Operators across the globe. It all started when I purchased my BBS (Bulletin Board System) in 1992. I've been doing computer graphics for quite some time.
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